rebonjour

Hello again.

I've been missing Paris of late...Not too badly, but just the little things. Like taking the metro or the 28 bus and getting off at Notre Dame. Getting a noisette at the Saint Medard and watching all the world pass me by. Or sitting with friends in the back of a bar with a demi-citron. Eating a grec or falafel standing up in a public place. Walking everywhere, being surrounded by complete strangers, lovely boys, and pretty girls.

I've been driving everywhere, spending lots of time in traffic. Having coffee in cafes. Walking in public, but commercial, places.

It's not the same.

Of course not, and it'll never be the same. But I made a vow a while back to live every year like "Year Paris". Yeah, I gave it a name, Year Paris. Something like "kilometer zero". Year Paris was the most interesting, exciting year of my life, and while I might not top Year Paris just yet, I can make a promise to live as close to it as possible.

Right now, not doing so well.

Bordeaux

Finally! I've decided to write a post on each major city visited on the Franco-Spanish road trip my parents and I embarked on.

Packed my backpack and met the parentals at their hotel where we caught a cab to Charles de Gaulle airport. We picked up a Citroen Picasso C4 at Avis. Dad was mad since they had specified for a Mercedes since he's not familiar with French cars, but they were all out. I asked Dad to stick it out--that it would be cool to learn something "new". He got familiar with the controls, then we got out of there.

Dad set up his GPS Garmin thingy, and we were soon on our way to Bordeaux. I got to drive, which was nice. Arrived at Holiday Inn Express only to find out that Mom made a reservation for the next night. The sweet girl working found us a suite at a Mercure down the road since they were fully booked. That was when I realized that I forgot my passport.

Ate a delicious, expensive dinner at Mercure. Looked like hell in my jeans and hoodie while surrounded by suits finishing up deals. Service was great though. I love how I can look like crap at a fancy place and still get treated nicely. It's a rare occasion though. Server was funny to Dad, "Can I suggest a wine?...A Bordeaux perhaps?" We all laughed, and Dad got a glass of wine.

Found same day round trip tix to Paris the next day. While I get my ass back to Paris, Mom and Dad would enjoy Bordeaux. When I got back we went back to the Holiday Inn that we were originally going to stay at.

I'm melting

Back in sweltering Paris after stopping off at Nevers to see the preserved body of St. Bernadette. Got into Caulfield mode or the "Caulfield Effect" as I'd like to call it. Sometimes I refer to it as that when something vulgar happens in front of kids and I want to protect them or when something is desecrated. Today, this group of tourists that came in on a bus from somewhere walked into the church where her body was held and one guy, and there was a HUGE sign saying not to, started filming and taking photos. I've never felt so violently ill or moved in a sacred place. Honestly, that deep, dark side of me that I never speak or write of publicly usually wanted to take that camera far from that place and all those people and smash it to the ground. You just don't do that type of stuff at a church.

Anyway, drove back into Paris, and it's so hot here! Thought I left the heat in Spain. Bid farewell to Mom and Dad--I will see them back in the States. Bought some wine and brought it over to Micefa, my favorite one that's sweet a bit and good chilled. Then made an appointment to close my account. Felt so disgusting because I was sweating from running all over and the heat, and the guy that helped me was really cute but a bit of a douchebag.

Met Melissa and Susie and Mel's bf Cedric came home and we had dinner together: salad and pizza. Yum! Then we saw In Bruges at my cinema--my last film there! It was not bad. Made me want to see Bruges. Then got drinks to cool ourselves off since the cinema is under construction and there was no air conditioning. Got home pretty late.

I really can't wrap my head around leaving and packing. I almost just want it to happen already so I don't have to think about what I'm missing. But it was a good run, and after visiting so many different cities and countries, I know that there's still more I have to discover and experience. I've always got tired of routines. They were safe and comfortable for a while, but it's good to explore and constantly challenge yourself. I hope that I can accomplish that next year like I did this one.

is this the last time?

A wonderful 5th arrondisement day.Had brunch with Lucia right outside at La Salle à Manger. I've passed this place a million times and have never eaten there. We got Le Vitaminé which includes sliced bread, rolls, a croissant and a pain au chocolat, choice of café, chocolat or café au lait, and an orange juice. All the breads come with 5 glass jars containing honey, marmalade, peanut butter, raspberry jam, and vanilla spread. Quite the breakfast. We both got chocolats and it was really good, not as rich as Angelina's, but still tasty. We sipped it in bowls.

When we were done we stood outside at the bottom of the street talking about the weather when I see my landlord coming towards me, all smiles. He greets us and asks if I can write a letter to the next tenant about my impressions of where I lived and what I liked about the quartier. I guess he found someone to stay at my place. I happily said yes.

Afterwards, since Lucia's leaving on next Thursday, we did some souvenir shopping at St. Michel. I got stuff for my neighbors and family too. Walked also to Gibert Jeune so that Lucia can get a Lamy fountain pen for her friend. She told me that her friend like the color "mustard yellow", and I suggested the Lamy Safari since it comes in yellow. She's also bought other Lamys for friends. It's a really great fountain pen. Sleek and modern, and not too heavy that your hand fatigues when you write. I should seriously be sponsored by them. Anyway, headed over to Café Panis and sat in comfy leather chairs. Lucia planned her to-do list for the week, and I made some plans for myself. I want to be "done" with things by next Friday when my parents come so that I can spend time with them when they're here. Added books to read on my summer reading list and souvenirs to buy for family and friends. We stayed there for at least 2 hours just talking, writing and planning, people watching and listening in on tourists' conversations.Walked across the street to Shakespeare and Co. and found a used book that was on my summer reading list for cheap (Arthurian Romances by Chretien de Troyes). Yay! Also bumped into Melissa and Alan. Then Alan bumped into his Dutch friend David and his three friends. Small world. They met up with us later at Shywawa where we were celebrating Kathy having finished an 11 page paper. Susie, Taylor, and Taylor's friend Jeremy came too. We played Melissa's mind games that were sort of frustrating ("In my world, there's beer, but no wine. There's Holland, but no Sweden. What else is in my world?") and just about killed ourselves over Lucia's FBI scenario question. It was nice, this long table of people and beers, different conversations and games going on, having to lean closer to people you just met asking, "What? What'd you say?" It was lovely...

This was a really lovely day despite the overcast weather, the fact that Lucia's leaving in a week, that I'm leaving in a month, and despite that in a small corner of my mind I have the departure and the packing and the last of this and that and everything connected with saying goodbye crouched in that corner waiting to spring and tear me away from what's been my city, my home for a year. Every time I walk into a café or eat a certain French dish I think, "Is this the last time?" And yet I don't feel any regret or a rush to do things. I am at peace. I've seen what I wanted to see. There are more places I'd like to visit, but if I don't get to them, then all the more reason to come back to Paris, my home for a year.

Venezia: Day 14

Venezia: Day 14

Woke up late-ish. Traveling from city to city can do that to you, especially by Day 14 of our little trip. We didn't have much planned to see, no museums we were dying to wait in line for. Today was a really easy going day. Took the metro boat to the famous Piazza San Marco and had lunch at a lovely restaurant off the square where we were served by the Venetian Steve Buscemi. He really had his face. And he was super sweet and had a thing for Lucia. See, Lucia got this dish, and for some reason she wanted sliced tomatoes, so she asked him if he could arrange that for her, and he was really nice about it and said yes. He comes back and places by her plate a bowl of TOMATO SAUCE and walked away. We all stared at each other smiling. Keisha said, "Maybe he heard 'sauce' instead of 'sliced'?" Laughable. Afterwards, Keisha and I ordered an espresso as our digestif and Lucia didn't order anything, but Seniore Buscemi came by and put down a shot of limoncello in front of her. She turned, as if to say he was mistaken, but he only winked at her and smiled. Lucia has a Venetian boyfriend! We joked all day about it.We walked by the boat docking areas and sat there and had gelato and then we perused the many souvenir carts for Venetian masks. Keisha is planning a masquerade party for her birthday next year, and she wanted all of us to get masks. I got a simple white one that covered my eye area, Lucia one with feathers, and Keisha's was huge and goldish, and perfect for her since it's for her birthday masquerade.Walked some more along the canals with no real purpose. We did want to take a gondola ride though, so we talked to a guy who wanted 80 euros for the three of us for 30 minutes. No way. Keisha said that we'll be back because we need to find an ATM. We then got it down to 20 euros each and the guy said we'll stop by an ATM in the middle of the gondola ride, haha. Sweetness.

The gondola ride was pretty sweet. What I liked was that it was solemn and quiet. We didn't really go through touristy places or bump into other gondolas. Going along the canals was just so unreal. It felt like a Disneyland ride, almost, but way better. Because this wasn't a set, this was real. People lived here. When I was a kid, I wanted to live in New Orleans Square at Disneyland.

We stopped and our gondola guy told Keisha that the ATM was across the square. He spoke a little English. We docked right next to another Gondola guy that kind of looked like a young Jack Nicholson. He was funny and posed in some photos with us while smoking on his cigarette.
For dinner, took the metro boat to another part of Venice, the less touristy part. Got off at Accademia, and tried to look for this wine bar that I read about, but no luck. We went to a restaurant that faced the ocean and had some seafood instead. Real tasty. Then got some gelato and waited for the boat to take us home.It was still light out, but we were pretty tired. We took the long way back home though on the boat going through the shipping yards and passing the train station. The girls stayed inside the boat while I stood on the starboard side watching boats pass and the lovely scenery. I can't remember everything I was feeling at that moment, but I was definitely happy to be on this trip with good people and still have time to myself. You know you've found good people to be with when they let you be who you are and understand where you're coming from. I've never had to explain myself to them or be pressured to do stuff that I didn't feel like doing. And it's like they instinctively knew that I like my time alone. God, these girls are amazing.

I thought about friends back home with boyfriends, friends with kids, and girls I graduated with that are about to get married. I'm all happy for them, and I want the best for them. But I felt odd for not sharing what they wanted or at least being in the same situations as theirs. Graduating. In a relationship. Found a job. Moved into a new apartment.

Everything happens for a reason, I guess. If I hadn't made the choices I made, I wouldn't be standing here on this boat watching gondolas float by, feeling the cool salty wind brush my face and sensing that wherever I was, whether it be in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Paris, Rome, or here on this boat, that wherever I was, I was home.

understanding in a car crash

Like the new blog header? I find it hilarious because that sheet of paper is completely blank save for 2 words. It was this paper I was writing for History of Paris.

I'm feeling slightly better now. I'm just trying to get used to my life being a question mark. And that's okay. That's okay. It's going to be okay. I feel like going to batting cages right now, for some reason. I'm a little on edge.

Good day today despite being a little in my own world. Lunch with girls at L'As du Falafel in the Marais, only the best falafel place in Paris probably. Then off to a cafe to study. This time one by Melissa's work. The place was really super cute with lights in the ceiling that look like stars and comfy chairs. Much studying and talking was done. Then Kathy and I went to WH Smith because she needed a guide book for Italy. She's backpacking there by herself. Good for her! After walking around Paris for a while, met up with Melissa a couple hours later for another study cafe session, this time at the Barnum. That's when I had my "car crash" moment.

I must explain with backstory. Junior year of high school I got in a car crash going to class. It wasn't my fault, I was making a protected left turn and an airport van ran the red light and rammed into the right passenger side of my car. I saw it coming, but I was too late at reacting, in fact, I turned left more, like making a U-turn, hoping to avoid the crash, but it didn't happen.

Whenever stuff like this happens, I feel like I need to re-examine my life. Even though my life wasn't in danger and I wasn't hurt, I still felt like there was something wrong, that even at some subconscious level there was something I was overlooking. Yes, it was his fault that he hit me, that he wasn't paying attention, but this had to happen for some other reason. Maybe this happened because I wasn't paying attention to something in my life, not something that had to do with the car crash.

Anyway, another car crash moment, fast forward 5 years later. At Barnum, we got Cokes, and I was absentmindedly crushing my lemon with my spoon inside the glass with the Coke in it while Melissa and Kathy were talking, and I wasn't even paying attention. I was just crushing the lemon with one hand when the glass tips over, and I can see it all happening slowly just like the car crash 5 years before, and Coke spills all over the table. Kathy and Melissa react more quickly than I do, and I just watched it drip onto the floor. There weren't any napkins or anything. Kathy got some and the waiter was super sweet and cleaned it up, and I just sat there thinking, "What am I ignoring? What am I not paying attention to?" Maybe I'm looking too deep into things. They just joked and said I was a klutz. But I figured out what was wrong 5 years ago...Sometimes I think we need a little "car crash" to put things in perspective.

Anyway, if this all sounds too crazy, this episode of "The X-Files" written and directed by Gillian Anderson is all you need to kind of understand what this is like for me. My favorite 7th season episode, "all things".

j'aime...la liste.

Things I like:

1* watercolors
2* sitting in parks to study with chocolate and fruit to eat
3* sitting in cafés to study with a demi-citron to drink
4* 1664 Blanc in its blue bottle
5* wearing a button-down over a flowy dress
6* stores dedicated to certain things (http://www.geant-beaux-arts.fr/) and Dubois on rue Soufflot
7* wearing flowy dress with my rugged engineer boots
8* not wearing a watch
9* mimes
10* finding new uses with old things (Bonne Maman jam jar for water when painting)
11* calligraphy
12* girls wearing high-tops and dresses
13* guys wearing 5 day stubble and wrinkled button-downs cuffed to elbow
14* brebis fromage + tuc crackers (+ jam, as suggested by Melissa, but I've never tried it)
15* square scarf as a headband
16* shortcuts or different paths to the same place
17* Monoprix peach champagne
18* when boys think I'm cute and tell me so (thanks Taylor!)
19* hosting dinner party
20* looking at all the color choices at Dubois (see 6*)
21* seeing my priests on bikes or wearing sandals while shopping for fruit
22* giving old people directions
23* tartines: opened faced sandwich

"I know I can make it through!"

Yesterday was Taylor's birthday. It was originally going to be at Lily's, but she had to go back to the States, so I suggested mine since it's fairly large enough for 6 or 7 people. Everyone brought something alcoholic and something solid, so there was more than enough wine, beer, and food to go around. For hors d'oeuvres, small salami sandwiches, pan roasted potatoes (originally for dinner, but everyone was eating them!), olives, cheese and crackers, gummy bears. For dinner, salad, a roast chicken, and grilled aubergines. For dessert, Taylor's chocolate mousse birthday cake, of course, with mini ice cream cones on the side.

Taylor brought his Degrassi: The Next Generation dvds and we watched a couple episodes and assigned characters to each of us. This was my first time watching it, but I really liked it. I could see the 8-10th grade me watching this stuff, and I wish I did. Lots of laughs around my small, round table.

Today, I've got a drawing class, and it should be good since it's nice out. I don't know where we're drawing, hopefully a garden somewhere.

presque fini

School is almost at an end. Had 2 "finals" this week. They were just tests, really. After our test today, we went to BIA for our final "l'histoire de Paris" lunch. We finished the test early and got there around 11, and they don't serve lunch until 12 so we got American coffees and studied for our next classes or did some homework in our cozy little booth in the back. At noon, we ordered our delicious burgers and shared nachos. Oh American cuisine...

So it was a nice French style lunch since we were at the restaurant for more than 3 hours, haha. Then Taylor and Topher walked in and saw us and were all, "Thanks for not inviting us!" Afterwards, Melissa wanted to study a little before her next class so we went to another café down the street, le Café Barnum. A nice café on rue Monge. The waiter was really sweet and slightly impressed by our French accents, haha. Especially Melissa's, haha. He was funny though. I got a demi-citron and Lucia a demi-pèche (beer and peach syrup), and when he put our drinks down he said, "Here is the demi-citron, I think. And the demi-pèche...I think." But he got it right.

I like the idea of studying with a beer. It sounds counter-productive, but it's like studying with coffee. It's nice. And I'm savoring the beer. One demi, and I'm good.

We studied for an hour or so and went our separate ways. I was done for the day, so I walked around to burn off the burger and went to H&M to see if I can find something nice to wear for our final MICEFA dinner tomorrow. The dinner is going to be just up the street from me! Nice.

Firenze: Day 12

Woke up late and got a croissant and cappuccino next door to the hostel. It cost less than 3 euros for both! Heaven. Keisha was having some money trouble. She couldn't withdraw money from an ATM, and when she called to check her balance it had been really low. So we spent the morning hashing that all out.

Went to the Uffizi and stood in line for almost 3 HOURS. Unbelievable. It was worth it though. Unfortunately, we couldn't take photos. I really like religious and medieval art. Saw Botticelli's The Birth of Venus. Sat on a bench and just stared at it for a while. It looked...faded to me, like it was almost disappearing. Maybe when they print it in books, it looks better, they enhance the colors more. But at that moment, I felt so lucky to see it right then and there, right before it got worse. And I thought about an excerpt from Fight Club, how even the Mona Lisa is falling apart.

Afterwards, we went...leather shopping. I took the girls to the Scuola del Cuoio or the Leather School at the monastery of Santa Croce. Started after World War II by Franciscan friars, the leather school is located right behind the church. It felt kind of hidden, which was really nice. You walk through this garden behind the church, and go up a set of stairs and down this hallway in the building at the back, and then you'll see these rows of work benches and old men putting leather wallets together. Between each workstation was a door into a room where women were sewing.

Glass cases held purses, bags, briefcases made in leather, ostrich, elk. I'm a huge bag girl, so this was heaven. For all of us. I was glad to have Keisha there too who knows quality when she sees it since she's worked at Louis Vuitton, and she was impressed. We looked at bags and wallets. The sales guys were really nice, letting us touch everything, not harassing us or bothering us. I found a gorgeous red Epi leather wallet. Epi is textured leather. It has ridges and the texture of tree bark almost, but with the ridges really close together. It was bright and it looked fun and mature at the same time. Unique as well. Handmade right there, no middleman. Inside the leather was smooth and black. I bought it. 99 euros. At Louis Vuitton, it would retail for over $600.

The workers there said I can come back tomorrow and get my initials on it (YAY!!), but not today since they were closing. We decided to come back tomorrow before we leave for Venezia. Keisha and Lucia were also thinking about what to get for themselves.

Went to other leather stores around the area, but nothing measured up to the Leather School. The girls were looking for nice leather carry-on bags. I love the idea of a leather carry-on bag or weekend bag, something that would age well, that would go wherever you traveled. Something you could pass on to your children that would have a lot of history to it.
We found a deli and ate some really, really great food. I got chicken and roast vegetables (aubergines, zucchini, bell peppers), and we shared a bottle of the house wine. It was really good and cheap and finally another meal without pasta. We just sat and savored the meal and talked for more than two hours. I love that. Back in the States, I can't remember a restaurant where we could stay for more than two hours. That rarely happens. And where the servers don't bother you every waking moment with, "How's everything doing? How's the food?" Here, they leave you alone, especially when you're having an intense conversation.

Afterwards, it was dark out and we wanted to end the day with the Piazza Michaelangelo. Our Vatican tour guide said that it's the best place to watch the sunset. Unfortunately, we missed it, but we still wanted a view of the city. We crossed the river Arno and walked up a hill until we found it. A large parking lot for buses but with an incredible view of the city. And a replica of the famous "David". We watched the view without saying anything, just taking it all in for a while.

eat it like a sandwich

School was blah today. Went to Musee D'Orsay to cheer my spirits/people watch/write. Left when too many people kept walking past me while I was writing. It was a nice hour. Then went to my cafe to get a demi-citron (Stella with lemon syrup). Did some writing there, then my waiter spied on me too to see what I was writing! Boo.

The best thing was, this Australian man in front of me ordered a sandwich. He spoke the basic French phrases like "Merci" and "Bonjour". When his waiter left, he said to me, "Parlez-vous anglais?" I said yes. He asked, "How do I eat this?"

"It's a sandwich. You eat it like a sandwich."

I smiled trying not to laugh, and the waiter came over asking what was wrong, and the Aussie explained what he was asking me, and the waiter and I looked at each other with this collective thought in our heads and just smiled. The whole thing made my day.

Then an amazing dinner with friends, lots of laughing and stories. Good food, beer, wine, dessert. I had a really good time. Thanks everyone.

un jour férié

The French have 11 national holidays. And 5 weeks vacation time compared to the U.S.'s 14. Awesome. As a result, I did not have class this past Thursday. I made a lunch date with Lucia, and we also planned to see "Iron Man" after. I was dying to see this film after reading a post from the Sickness (see the sidebar for the link to his blog).

Woke up, sun streaming into the room. Lovely day. Jeans, tee, sandals, and my bag slung over my shoulder. Walked towards Notre Dame, to my favorite touristy cafe. It's around 10H30. Lucia said she'll be late, coming around 12H. No worries.

Sat on a comfy leather chair facing the street. I love how the walls of cafes can sometimes open out like sliding doors. I didn't want my feet trampled on by tourists outside, so I sat semi-inside outside. Waiter was so cute with his crisp, white shirt rolled up to the elbow. He was young, maybe 18. I order a café crème.

Boys on scooters and bikes pass on rue Lagrange, the street I'm facing, coming towards the Seine and Notre Dame and turning left. Then a family on bikes. My coffee comes on a mismatched saucer that makes me smile.

I like the way tourists look and see things for the first time. The look in their eyes is money. Pure gold. It's like the moment before the tears of joy and happiness. Without the tears. They snap a photo, and it's theirs. A flock of nuns pass by. "Flock" because they looked like geese with white fabric draped over their heads and under straw hats. I quickly draw a picture with my fountain pen.
I can't get over how happy I am. And yet I hate myself for thinking, for even having the feeling that if I had a reason to stay, I would. I hate myself for lying to people and telling them that I miss my family when they ask because that's a normal, appropriate response. And I want to seem normal, I don't want people to be put off ease by me. I'm already weird to begin with. I love my family; they're with me always. So what is there to miss? Fred talked about this at the Peace Corps talks. He has no problem missing things. We're alike that way.

I thought about my friends. How I severed most connection from them because that's what I wanted. I sent postcards and received Facebook responses. I wondered if they'd still like me, the new me, or if I had to start over again. I got that feeling after one friend's visit, the one that called me "mean". I told my Paris friends about what had happened, and one of them said that "that should be a compliment". That made me feel good. If I lost all my friends back home, if they didn't like me anymore, then at least I had my expatriates.

An hour passed and I drank my coffee, and I thought about how long it took for me to get here, and how hard and painful it was in the beginning, but I made it and all that was worth it and it all led to me sitting at this perfect cafe at this moment now. The waiter continually drops change and it makes me laugh. I put my money out, and he comes towards me. He fumbles with the change, but doesn't drop any. We smile at each other and bid goodbye.

Outside Roma: Day 8 and 9

Day 8Andrea planned for us to go to Tivoli today. He's a really good planner. He doesn't talk a lot, and we're alike that way. He would just subtly suggest things that he thought were good ideas. Like the day before Tivoli he said, "You know, it's so nice out we should have a day trip to Tivoli--you don't have to spend all 4 days in Rome. We can go to Tivoli, and my friend is having a picnic at a lake and we can go to that too. You don't want to be stuck in museums on such beautiful days." Boy was he right.

Went to Tivoli to see Villa Adriana, a city created by the Roman emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century AD. It's also on the UNESCO World Heritage List. I kind of want to see everything on this list. There's 851 properties.We enjoyed this sunny, breezy day walking through ruins and gardens. It's crazy to think that it's all still there, standing. Not in perfect condition, but the remnants are there. Today, we destroy everything. We leave nothing behind anymore. Maybe because it has no value. What does that say about us? No one will ever know someone lived in that building or something or other because it's no longer there, it's a Target now. Some of us will remember and reminisce, but we'll soon forget because that's Target, and they're having a sale on dvds.

Afterwards, Andrea drove us to Lago di Martignanno (I think that's the name). It was really hard to get there, way out in the country. I'm talking dirt roads and minimal signs. We got lost, and he had to call his friend to give him directions. There were two lakes, one bigger one and a smaller one, and we were going to the smaller one.It was a nice lake. Andrea had said, "In America, you like big. We like little." The lake was "little", but still big to me. And it was surrounded by green, and people were playing soccer and having picnics and sunbathing. It was nice. We met the guy hosting, his friend Carlo, who's super nice and reminded me of my friend Vilaska. The Roman version of Vilaska, haha. He offered us barbecue meat and bread and wine. We talked to an American girl who's teaching in Rome, a Spanish girl Marta, this hilarious guy Giovanni who kept giving us more wine, and other really nice Italian people. It was really cool. We raved how amazing Italian people were compared to the French, and Marta said, "When Italians love you, they love you forever. When they don't...watch out!" A storm started to come, so we left right before the downpour.

Day 9We woke up early to leave for Pompeii and see the ruined city. Andrea woke us up by using his computer in the main room where we were sleeping. He greeted us with, "You know that lake we were at yesterday? Someone died at the bigger one when we were there. A boat capsized and a man drowned."

We stopped on the way for a coffee and cornetta (like a croissant or any other pastry) at a coffee shop. I love the idea of just going to a bar and enjoying a cappuccino while standing. Especially when you don't have the time to really savor it like the French. Keisha bought some Vogue magazines--I perused the decorating one--and we were off.Pompeii was huge, bigger than Villa Adriana and it's a UNESCO World Heritage site as well. I just couldn't believe how much they uncovered, and it was all an accident. A city lost for more than a thousand years due to catastrophe. Maybe someone will undercover what we ourselves destroyed and learn something about us one day. We walked around, at a lost for words. In the "Garden of the Fugitives" we saw the plaster casts of Pompeiians at their moment of death, adults and children. We followed Andrea up a hill that was clearly not made for walking up and sat at one of the highest points in the city and ate oranges. We didn't talk much.

After Pompeii, we drove to the seaside city of Sorrento. Andrea had never been there, but always wanted to. It was really hard to find parking, so Andrea parked in a parking lot for an apartment building, and he sweet-talked the owner, a nice lady, into parking there. He told her in his sweet sounding Italian, "We're just visiting. We're only here for a couple hours. Would it be alright if we stayed here?" And the lady ate it up. I noticed that he's really good at buttering people up and making them bend to his will.

We got lunch at an outdoor cafe. I had the gnocchi "Sorrento-style". We walked toward this cliff, and Lucia asked an Italian lady to take our picture for us. When Andrea saw the photo, he said, "Let's take another one. Don't ask those Italian ladies. I will ask that German man." And he went toward the German tourists and asked if he could take a photo. The German did so happily, and afterwards he added, "Tell me if you like it. I framed the ocean in it." He showed it to Andrea and Andrea said, "Wow! It's great!" And it was. So, if you ever need someone to take good pictures of you, a German tourist is the best bet.
On the way back to the car, we'd pass orange trees full of oranges. Lucia, being so tall, got some for us. Andrea just said, "I don't know these tourists." Got home around 7 and around 10ish we went out and got pizza cooked "Naples" style. It was really good. Flat, not too much cheese. We then walked around the city, and it wasn't crowded at all, and there were barely any cars, and we walked in the middle of the street like it was nothing. We just followed Andrea, not knowing where we were going--he likes to do that--and then we ended up at the Spanish Steps. Unfortunately, I went bagless and didn't have my camera. Oh well.

parisian sundays

Another lovely Parisian Sunday yesterday despite the crummy weather that came around 16h-ish. Went to church with Lucia near the Arc de Triomphe. Then, since it was sunny out, we dined outdoors at a brasserie in St. Michel. We both got formules: salad, steak and frites. Lucia had wine, and I had a Coke. The Coke here tastes better than Coke at home. It's not too strong--it's a little flat, but it still has bite to it. They also serve it with lemon.

We listened to conversations going on around us. Our favorite was this couple and the girl's guy friend happened to walk by and stopped to talk for a really long time, and her date was just emanating so much hatred for the dude. I mean, this guy friend was a total douche, just flirting right in front of her date. When he left, she apologized to him. After our food, we declined the waiter's offer to serve us coffee. We decided to get coffee somewhere else.

I love the idea of "meal hopping". Getting a meal one place, then dessert and coffee somewhere else. I've done it a couple times back in SF around North Beach. We went to my favorite café nearby Notre-Dame. I love this place because for a café crème they give you your own milk pourer thingy so you can control how much you want. Lovely. And I love the cups they use. If I find any here or back home, I'm getting some.It's touristy, but I still love it, just being surrounded by people from all over the world. The chairs are super comfy as well. Lucia and I talked for an hour or so, probably more. It's funny how much time can go by just when you're really engrossed in a conversation with a friend.

I learned some things about where we're staying in Sicily.

1. The beach is behind the house we're staying in.
2. Our beach faces the east--we can watch the sunrise.
3. The beach is ours.

I think I just peed in my pants a little. Out of excitement, of course. I'm debating whether or not to bring the video camera. I'd love to film, but I also hate the idea of being burdened by all this stuff. I'm trying to go light for two weeks, bringing only my backpack (which can hold 40 liters) and a purse. Just the idea of having the camera, the dv camera, in addition to what I usually carry in a bag already hurts my shoulders. I'll think about it.

"Good morning Mr. Breakfast!" -- Pee Wee Herman, Pee Wee's Big Adventure

This is my morning set-up. Laptoppy by the window, English breakfast tea at my right, and some sort of breakfast food at my left. Today it was whole wheat crisps topped with the prune jam my landlord gave me. Yummy. Today the window is closed because it's cold out. I can't wait for summer.

Today marks a milestone. I am finished with another book. Yes, I write in another separate journal apart from this blog. This one dates from 13 August of last year to today. I bought this one at Borders. It's black, unlined. Cheap. My next one, that I already bought, is a Moleskine volant. Also unlined. I like it 'cuz it was pretty cheap and it's light so it'll be good for my trip to Italy.

You should try writing sometime. Not blogging, but writing. Just 10 minutes a day right before bed. It helps me re-organize my thoughts, gets me calm before I go to sleep, and I swear, it's stress relieving. I'm slowly trying to bring back the old ways.

I've been looking up stuff to do in Sicily, and I'm very excited. There's archaeological sites like The Valley of the Temples, the volcano Mount Etna (the locals refer to it as "Him"), the Aeolian islands, and the FOOD, my God, the food. Gelato up the kazoo. Cannolis, caponata, arancini...Wiki this stuff. Can you see why I'm excited?! And in a WEEK, I'll be there! AAHH!!

Movies I'll be watching to get ready for Italy:
--Roman Holiday
--The Godfather
--Only You: Does this even take place in Italy?

i love wednesdays.

Wednesday is the best day of my week. It's my favorite class, the week is almost over, and I can always look forward to lunch with the girls after our History of Paris on-site visit. Usually we pick something close to the site we visit or depending on what we're craving. Today, we visited Jardin du Luxembourg and ate at Crêpes à Go Go. Kathy's parents were with us, and they haven't had crêpes yet.

The visit was great. Luxembourg is my fave place to read and chill, so learning more about it just helps me appreciate it more. I love how sometimes we hang back to take photos, and our teacher keeps walking and talking and pointing--she just looks crazy. A crazy French lady talking to herself. But she's not that at all. She's lovely. I was looking at something far away and walking at the same time, and I totally crashed into her. Everyone laughed, including Kathy's parents who came along. She didn't mind it though.

I got the set menu for the crêpes (which includes a ham and cheese crêpe, a crêpe with sugar for dessert, and a choice of café or cider) along with an orange pressé which is pretty much pure squeezed orange juice with water on the side to add as much as you want. They have the same thing for lemons and grapefruits. We split up after lunch--Melissa went with Kathy and her parents to show them the Sorbonne, and I went with Lucia to the Phone House so that she can get a new telephone. Hers broke.

After, Lucia went to class, and I hung around looking into all the great stores on Rue Soufflot. La Sorbonne is nearby and some other schools, so there's a lot of papeteries (stationery and school supplies) as well as bookstores. Then I walked home. A great day.

I'm going through the advanced production class application process right now. It's a little tough since I'm abroad, but I'm in contact with the production coordinator who's an awesome guy, so he told me how to go about it. I really can't wait to get back into my film classes, especially my screenwriting II with Prof. McBride. I'm kind of scared that he's expecting a lot from me when I come back.

My best friend, Catherine, from SF has an Imdb page! Check it! It's for a short she was a grip on, but hey, that's something! I'm really excited for her. I'm so glad my film friends are doing so well. I have a lot of catching up to do.

Free Museum Sunday: Musée Rodin

It snowed last night, and I missed it. Actually, I caught the first bit of tiny flakes, but I didn't stay up because I didn't think it'd amount to anything, but I was wrong. Saw this when I looked outside my window. Dang.For free museum Sunday, I went to the Musée Rodin. Took the line 10 to the RER C--super easy. Met up with Lucia in the gardens. She was hungry, and I could always go for a cup of tea, so we ate in the gardens. It was most lovely since the sun was out for a bit. Lucia got a salad, and I got a strawberry pastry and Darjeeling tea (from the Mariage Frères (Mariage brothers)--famous French tea purveyors). Both were amazing.If I didn't mention it already, I'm a HUGE fan of tea. So I was really excited to have tea from this famous French tea company. The tea was really light and delicate, perfect for a springish day. I think I have to go to their tea shop before I leave Paris.

The museum was pretty cool. I really liked "The Kiss", which is the famous one. I think my favorite is "Death of Adonis" though. Lucia and I finished the museum in an hour or so--it's not that big. Then we wandered in the gardens and watched little kids run onto the grass when it's actually forbidden, but it was fun to see them break the rules. I took a pic of the museum, and on the main lawn, on the right, you can see a kid lying on the grass--his pose is hilarious.
Saw Lily, Sarah, and Romina there as well as Kathy and her parents who are visiting her. After, Lucia and I walked by Invalides, and we saw boys playing soccer on the grass. Lots of boys. Lots of cute, athletic boys. They wore bright jerseys and shorts that hit above the knee and showed off their calf muscles. It was nice a nice sight. I get the same fluttery feeling whenever I see guys in baseball uniforms. It's just a nice picture.

a productive first day

Last night had the most awesomest impromptu dinner party with Cher, Char, Susie, Sarah, and Lily. The feast included the before mentioned roast chicken, potatoes, salad, bread (courtesy of Susie) and cheese, wine and sangria (courtesy of Lily and Sarah), and for dessert, my own concoction of crispy sugary pastry topped with vanilla ice cream with caramelised pecans and garnished with chocolate lady fingers (also courtesy of Lily and Sarah). I am Martha Stewart. Unfortunately, I only took before and after pictures.


Funny story. So, I shop at a different butcher now for chicken, the one that Lucia likes better and so do I because all the guys that work there are hot or were once hot maybe but are old now. They also cook an amazing chicken. They were closing up and cleaning, and hot butcher gives me my chicken and the receipt and I go pay inside. Then all my change in my wallet spills onto their floor, it sounded like Vegas. All the guys went, "OOOHHH!!! JACKPOT!!!" And they laughed in a goodhearted way, but I was so embarrassed. I had my money out in exact change, and I give it to the guy right after picking up my change, and he laughed and said, "Oh! C'est parfait!!" (It's perfect). I love paying in exact change. He told me to have a good night and see you soon. I left the lovely butcher men feeling the glow of schoolgirly happiness in my cheeks, a spring in my step.

Great dinner. We put the sangria outside on my windowsill to get cold. The girls asked Cher and Char what the weather was like back in so cal. After, we watched videos on YouTube, the feature of the night being Cher's breakdance battle with her boyfriend. It was too hilarious. We laughed so hard, me with tears in my eyes. We watched it again. Then we watched some dog videos that Susie liked and also Human Tetris videos. Good times.

Today, woke up pretty early. We walked up my street, to Notre Dame. We took funny pics, me and Cher, trying to hang from the bridge. Char wanted to stop because she saw people laughing at us. I didn't care, that made me happy. We walked inside as well. I took Char to Gibert Jeune and got her a fountain pen since I missed out on her birthday and Christmas.




Then walked to Jardin du Luxembourg. We sat in front of the fountain, soaking it all in. Took them to Crepes A Gogo for some galettes, a wheatier, healthier crepe that's filled with savory stuff rather than nutella. They loved it. Then treated them to cafe noisettes, which they also liked. Went to DuBois, an art shop, and I got Cher a quill and ink for her birthday/Christmas since I missed that as well. I love giving gifts that are inspired from my old-fashioned interests. I want to bring back the old ways as much as I can. Plus, they both really wanted these pens.
Went to the Pantheon and saw the tombs of Voltaire, Marie Curie, and others. Then we walked home. I took us in a giant circle so they didn't see things twice. I'm getting better at this host/tourist guide thing.

spring breakish

I feel like I'm on vacation. Two classes are canceled this week, and today's my first class of the week, and it's already Wednesday. Awesomeness.

On Monday, I took Stacy to the Champs to see the Arc de Triomphe. Then I got freaking lost trying to find line 2 in the labyrinth that is Charles de Gaulle Etoile station. I took a wrong turn and took us in a circle. Not one of my finest moments. We finally got to Montmartre, had late lunch, and Susie met up with us at Sacre Coeur. Then we got some coffee, took Stacy to Pigalle, and head home.

Yesterday, took Stacy shopping around rue de Rivoli. She wanted a new wardrobe and was willing to drop up to 500 euros. I think every girl that comes here believes Paris to be shopping mecca, but only if you've got the bucks. She got a dress and 3 cardigans at H&M, but didn't see anything else she fancied. I got a cardigan too and some tank tops for my upcoming spring break trip.

Took her to Angelina for the best hot chocolate in the world. We were looking at our purchases at the table, and one of the higher up guys (he was wearing a suit, and didn't look like a waiter) came by and said, "C'est superbe!" and smiled at us, and Stacy got a kick out of that. He kept smiling whenever he passed us and that was nice. He must be thinking, "Oh you girl tourists and your shopping". Stacy loved the chocolate and millefeuille as well as the decor of the place. This lovely American family sat across from us, and asked Stacy, "Do they take long here to order?" And Stacy said, "Ask this girl, she knows this place!" And I said no, it should be okay. And the Dad was funny, he saw my dessert when it came and my hot chocolate, and I noticed his jaw dropping a bit in awe, and when the waiter came he motioned to me and said, "I'll have what she's having." It was a nice moment and made me feel good.

Went back to my hood and went to this bar that I've never been to, and got pints of Hoeegarden with slices of lemon, so good. The bar guys were really nice, one of them cute in a dork way, so I might go there occasionally. This was a big deal for Stacy since she's 20. Then we got champagne and wine at the supermarket so we can get smashed at my place. I went in the morning to get groceries while Stacy was getting ready and bought a crapload of cheese and dry sausage and crackers. So we had a little French soiree with Susie and watched videos on Youtube and made fun of the film Across the Universe which Stacy hates with a passion.

My friend Edward Appleby mentioned Paris For A Year at his online home Rushmore Academy the other day. Thanks Edward!

condensed

Wow, have never done so much in two days! I am exhausted again. I need to start working out or something. It's hard to keep up with Stacy who is a rainbow/squirrel/ball of energy rolled into one.

She did crash the first day from jetlag which is why she didn't come to fondue. I met up with Jean and Emily at Montmartre at this fondue place that gives you wine and baby bottles. It was absolutely insane! We met up with these 2 American guys and girls who were visiting Paris, and they were really funny and cool. A great time. I had two baby bottles of wine, but only because the waiter and Emily made me do it!! Naw, he was really sweet because I spoke French for my friends and just got me one. By the end, the 7 of us were all stumbling, and in my drunkness I asked, "Do you guys have Facebook?" It was silent for a second, and I though, "Oh shit", and then they said, "YEAH!" A pen and paper was passed around and we got each other's names. So now I'm going to have acquaintances from Texas, West Virginia, and New York!

On Sunday, went to the Cinematheque since it was free. I wish I went to church for Easter, but it's hard to do the things you want to do when you have someone visiting you. God has not been replaced with Cinema, haha. Susie came too, but at the cutoff for the free entrance, so I felt bad.

After, met up with Sarah H. and I took Stacy to lunch nearby the Notre Dame. I found this decent cafe and always wanted to go there. Might go there for studying, the people are really nice, and it's comfier than the Saint Medard. I had a croque but with mozzarella and tomatoes.

We got tickets to Be Kind Rewind, then passed the time going down St. Germain. Like Catherine, Stacy likes to shop, so we ducked into a little boutique to look around. I helped Stacy get a dress and jacket. She has this thing when she knows an interesting person (like yours truly) she asks them to go with her on a shopping day where that person is her personal stylist. In exchange for my fashion advice, she buys the person the metro ticket for shopping and lunch. So, we spent one day at Union Square in SF buying her clothes.

I made her try on things she wouldn't usually wear like mini-skirts and tight jeans, because she has a cute body and should show it off. So I helped her pick dresses and jackets yesterday and told her what would go well with the jacket she bought. Being a fashion stylist is fun! I think I dress okay, not amazing, I just like looking unique and buying things that flatter my body and make me feel confident.

I also got myself a really cute skirt for spring. It's a gray prairie skirt, pleated and full, and there's a petticoat underneath with an eyelet border that peaks out under the skirt every so often when you walk with it on. It looks so coyboyish and American, I love it. I had my boots on and tights when I wore it, and that looked cute. It also had deep pockets that I could hide my hands in! I could not say no, I had to have it. Finding something cute and unique makes me happy, and it gave me great joy to wear it. It's weird how clothing can make you feel confident.

Saw the film, which was okay, I just liked the sweded parts and filmmaking parts. After, we chilled at my house since I was tired. Then, we headed to Les Caves Lechapelais for a "gothic soiree" because ladies before midnight were free. It was really cool and interesting, but I was so exhausted so I just watched all the gothic people dance. Susie made an interesting comment that she liked seeing all the "awkward" people here. It's no exaggeration that in all my time here I haven't seen a gothic looking kid, I really don't mean to generalize, but I can't find another way to say it. So does it make sense that after seeing all these cool and interesting people, I can breathe a sigh of relief that Paris isn't just Louis Vuitton and Longchamps bags and boots and skinny jeans on girls, and it's not all suits on guys or plain but nice clothing? Beneath that--in the caves (basement) for example--the awkward kids are there, dancing their hearts out to loud German music.

They had this sort of laser light thing, and it freaking looked like something out of Star Wars, it would actually shoot the light like a space gun that fires lasers or something, and I was scared out of my mind, but it was cool to watch Susie and Stacy dance to it. I was just cowering on the sidelines, trying not to get shot at last night.

Also am in touch with the web designer for Rushmore Academy (we became friends on Facebook!), and I'm going to write a report for him on Wes Anderson's masterclass at Fnac! Sweetness. I'd like to think that I'm a foreign correspondent for film in Paris. How cool would that be to live in Paris and just write in English? Kind of like what I'm doing right now.